Bryns Mesa

Posted on January 22, 2012 by Doug Smith

There are so many good hikes in the Sedona area, and many of them link together.  A number of the trails through passes, going around the steep red sandstone monuments of the area.    One such route uses Soldier Pass to go over the top of Bryns Mesa in a loop route.   This was the sign at the trailhead:

This 5.5 mile loop winds past the Devil's Kitchen, a massive, rocky sinkhole and  the 7 Sacred Pools, pothole ponds in the sandstone.   It continues on through Solder Pass with views to the Solder Pass Arches and then climbs over the top of Bryn's Mesa.  

The trail up the dry wash passes beneath 6335 foot Capitol Butte.   Along the route is a vale of Arizona cypress.   On top of the mesas are pinyon pine and juniper.   Red rock surrounds all parts of the trail with views down toward Sedona, west over to the Teacup, northeast up Mormon Canyon, and north up to the Red Rock-Secret Mountain Wilderness.   The trails can also be connected to nearby routes to make a longer loop.   Around every corner is another view to photograph.   This area was one of our favorites.

 

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Cathedral Rock

Posted on January 18, 2012 by Doug Smith

We hiked as many trails as we could in the Sedona area and we found Cathedral Rock to be one of the most interesting.   From the parking lot to the end of the "trail" is only 0.7 miles, but almost all of it is up steep slickrock.   This is the sign at the trailhead:

The route follows cairns up for over 600 feet past several viewpoints to a series of ledges, finishing between two of the spires.   Anywhere beyond is a climb requiring equipment.   Around each corner is a new view:

This is a steep and slow hike both up and down, but has a unique feel to it.  Cathedral Rock is one of the most-photographed sights in the Sedona area and many tourists flock to the base, but not many go all the way up to the end of the trail.

 

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Sedona Hiking

Posted on January 15, 2012 by Doug Smith

As the winter snows cover all of our trails, we shorten our hikes, we put on cross country skis or snowshoes,and we plan ahead for our spring hikes.   We have also chosen to travel in the shoulder season to locations where good hiking can be found in later February through late March.   On Spring Break we traveled to Sedona in Arizona for late winter-early spring hiking.   We bought a book called 100 Hiking Trails around Sedona and as we read, we found that all 100 trailheads were within 30 minutes of driving.   We were eager to explore the area.

The elevation in Phoenix is only 1200 feet, but gets higher as you travel north.   Flagstaff is at 6900 feet, really too high for good hiking in March.   Sedona sits at 4500 feet with the desert hills to the south and the Mogollan Plateau to the north.   Surrounding Sedona are red rock sandstone rocks, monuments, cliffs, pinnacles, arches, canyons, and mesas.   The saying in Arizona, is that "God made the Grand Canyon, but he lives in Sedona."   We can see why.   Every day, we found memorable hikes.   A few of the best hikes in the Sedona area will be featured on Kamloops Trails this month.

The average temperature in March ranges from 34 degrees F to 64 degrees F.   We found the south end to be warm and dry and the north end canyons wetter.   It snowed in Oak Canyon one day,  making creek crossings difficult.   Anywhere with a south facing aspect (most of the hikes) was dry and arid.   We hiked two of the mountains, climbing about 2500 each time and needed to bring a shell for the wind.    We wore hiking boots and found them the best choice for the rocky hikes.   Exploring off trail means watching for cactus and all sorts of thorny shrubs. 

Many of these hikes would be too hot in the summer, but mid-March through May is a perfect time for hiking.   We will return to the Red Rock.

 

 

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Cooney-Battle Bluff Fossils

Posted on January 13, 2012 by Doug Smith

We were up in the hills past Cooney Bay exploring fossil beds. Most of our previous activity had been in the long gullies closer to Cooney Bay. We have found fossils there, but the area had been picked over and it took some digging to find new fossils.

On a winter day with no snow on south-facing slopes, we started from the parking area off the Red Lake Road, and then followed the track which parallels the railway on our way towards Battle Bluff.Past the tunnel bluffs, the slopes are more gentle and faint tracks climb the ridges. We followed these goat tracks up the hills. There are 5 gullies in the area to the east of Battle Bluff and we explored them. About halfway up, we stopped to look at shale outcrops. Pulling apart shale layers, we were delighted to find new fossils in every layer. Many were just smudged remains, but we found some very clear fossils too, mostly leaves, ferns, and branched plants. In 15 minutes of searching, we found some good ones for our collection.

Crossing ridges and gullies, we found some volcanic rock too from the cliffs above and a lot of quartz. Both milky quartz and rosy quartz covered the hillside, and they were rounded by stream action from the melting glaciers. The hills are mostly barren with very few trees anywhere in sight. In one gully we found a skeleton of a young bighorn sheep. Goat trails connect ridges and gullies and the whole area is a slow but interesting traverse with views down to Kamloops Lake below.

 

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Altius Hills

Posted on January 9, 2012 by Doug Smith

Barnhartvale is separated from Kamloops by an steep-sided  mountain which local residents refer to as Sunrise Mountain, but is really a series of hills between Juniper and Barnhartvale.   A few trails penetrate through the gullies to the hilltops.   All the direct routes are steep.   Access to the hilltops from the south and west are long, round-about routes.  

The north side has  series of open hilltops separated by wooded gullies.   Single tracks can be followed up these gullies.   Start at the end of McLeod-Uplands Road.   Follow the gas line double track west.   At the first gully, look for a single track climbing south.   This trail goes steeply up between two steep hills.   In new snow, we found it a bit slippery, but manageable.   At 300 metres a junction is reached.   The route south continues to the higher area which we have referred to as Fortius Hill.   Follow this single track south as it follows the gully for another 300 metres, then for another 150 metres as it winds up the sidehill to the hilltop.   At the highest point, you will be standing in a large amphitheater below Middle Mountain.   Impressive views down the valley both east and west make the climb worth all the effort.  

Return down the way you came, but at the intersection take a left turn to follow a different single track through a pass.   A side trip to the top of the hill to the north is also worth your time.   We have called this ridge Altius Hill.   The single track through the pass is a mountain bike track.   It is a pleasant route that traverses the sidehill and down to  the double track which goes up the gully between Barnhartvale and Juniper,   Turn downhill and follow it to the gas line and return back to the trailhead on a flat double track road.   The whole loop is not long, perhaps 4km in all, but in snowy conditions is just about right.    We enjoy this route at any time of year.   In winter, good boots are needed and we carried traction devices for our boots for any potential icy areas.   The best way to counter-attack the Winter Blahs is to get outdoors for some good exercise.

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Outer Inks Lakes Trails

Posted on January 1, 2012 by Doug Smith

There is a maze of old roads and ATV tracks in the hills west of the Coquihalla Highway and below the flanks of Greenstone Mountain.   The trails also extend north towards Chuwhels Mountain.   For the sake of clarity, we will call the northern end of this area the Outer Inks Lakes Trails.   The Greater Kamloops Motorcycle has a number of marked ATV trails in this area, some of which follow roads and tracks, and some that are really suited only to motorcycles.   Mountain bikers can ride down these ATV tracks, but many of them climb straight up steep hills.   The map included here shows most of the main roads and double tracks of the area.   Between each of the main routes are numerous single tracks, some named by GKMA and some not.    For explorers to the area, start with the main tracks and visit the lakes, ponds, and large marshes along the routes.   A circle route can be created for any distance from 2km to 15km.   All roads/tracks were walked with a GPSr and the data was downloaded into Google Earth.    Tracks were then redrawn onto a Google Earth map projection as a background image.   Over time, we will add more detail to the map as we explore the area on foot or on mountain bike.   At this point the roads are icy, but as the snows accumulate, they will be suitable for snowshoeing or cross country skiing.      Click on the image to enlarge it.

We will continue to return to these wooded slopes in different seasons, especially in the shoulder season when there is no one around.

 

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Opax in the Snow

Posted on December 27, 2011 by Doug Smith

Opax is the steep and wide mountain between Lac du Bois, Pass Lake, and Tranquille Canyon.   There are three good routes to the top and they can be combined into a loop route.   In the winter, though, the route from the east provides the easiest access.

In each of the last three winters, we have trudged in the snow to the top.   Boots and gaiters are fine until the snow becomes too deep, then the route makes a good snowshoe trail.  

Take the Lac du Bois Road and when you arrive at McQueen Lake, look for the sideroad that angles up steeply west.   Most people will park at the bottom and follow the road up for 1km to the BC Forest Service kiosk and parking area.   There are three roads to choose from here.   The gated road north goes to Mud Lake.   The road south goes towards Lac du Bois.   The route west goes to the top of Opax Mountain.    Just follow the snowed-in double track, ignoring any minor side routes.   There are some viewpoints on the way up.   The best viewpoints are along the rim of the lava cliffs on the south and west side, but these spots require some bushwhacking and some navigation which fits drier conditions.   It can be easy to get lost on top of Opax by going off track, but in the winter time, we can choose an out-and-back route, following our own tracks back to the vehicle.      

For those willing to try a short off-trail route to a good viewpoint, follow these directions:

  • Continue along the main road until you see a good side road at N50 48.985 W120 29.213
  • Follow it to the end (see the map below; click to enlarge)
  • Strike off through the forest to the Southeast for 265 m to the top of the ridge
  • Return by the same route.

The route up and back is only about 7.5km.    Prepare for winter conditions and carry your mobile phone.

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Zilch Loop

Posted on December 23, 2011 by Doug Smith

A well-hiked trail/corridor is the flat pipeline road from Barnhartvale to Juniper.    The trailhead can found at the end of McLeod-Uplands Road.   The route heads to a ridge below Juniper.   Most walkers/hikers skirt the north end of the ridge and traverse some gullies to access the benchlands below Juniper.

Another route option for hikers and bikers is to follow the ridge south as it climbs above the gullies separating the mountainous terrain between Barnhartvale and Juniper.   From the pipeline road, take the double track that switchbacks up the ridge to the crest (or just follow the pipeline as the blue line shows below).    Look for a single track on the spine of the ridge that bears south (at N50 39.521 W120 13.061).   Follow this bike trail as it heads south underneath the crest of the ridge.   It is a good trail designed by mountain bikers coming off the upper part of Rose Hill – Scott Road down the gullies past Juniper to Valleyview.   

Follow the trail as it winds its way across the hillside and then crosses the creek. It then follows the creek to a crossroads, but hikers can follow any one of a number of small side trails up the bank to the double track above. Cross to the east side of the creek and follow the double track (the old road shown in yellow) all the way back down to the pipeline. I have done this route in winter and it is a good boot hike or snowshoe route. The best viewpoint is on an open hilltop just south of a saddle (N50 39.380 W120 13.020). The Zilch Loop route is about 8km total from the trailhead. In winter it will take an hour longer than in dry conditions. Even though it is close to the City, it is still a remote spot so come prepared for the backcountry. (Why Zilch? The last gulch….)

 

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Dam Lake Loop

Posted on December 20, 2011 by Doug Smith

Starting in the Inks Lake Exit area, backroads and trails expand through the forested slopes, linking over to Greenstone Mountain southwest, to the Timber Lake-Bush Lake area south and beyond southwest to the Chuwhels Mountain trails.   The total area is 15km by 7 km, with hundreds of trails, tracks, and backroads within a 100 square kilometer area.    Much of the area is used by ATVers, motorcycles, and snowmobiles, but no one has mapped all the routes.   The Greater Kamloops Motorcycle Association (GKMA) has posted trail signs for established routes.   Many of these tracks go straight up hills and some of the routes are too long for hikers.   Mountain bikers can follow some of the routes too, but the maze of roads and tracks is confusing for those afoot.   Building access routes for non-motorized use in such a big and complex are s is a big task, but it can be done, using Google Earth, a  GPS, a computer, and some exploration.   As these routes are completed, they will be posted here.

The lowest trailhead and the one closest to town is found by taking the Coquihalla Highway south and then taking the first exit, called the Inks Lake Road Exit.   The Inks Lakes are actually 2km east, but the road under the highway will take you over to the Inks Lakes close to the Lac le Jeune Highway.   The trailhead to the Outer Inks Lakes routes is on the west side of the highway.   Park a the gate or proceed down the road for 200m. and park at an established parking area on the north side.   There are tracks heading off in all directions, but our route follows the main road east to the first major junction in a clearing.   The Dam Lake Loop then climbs up the road to the south, following the course of Alkali Creek, before looping around from the northeast down to Dam Lake.

Many routes are possible. A good loop follows a backroad northwest before following another northeast, then another track east to complete the loop. A GPS is handy in this area and so coordinates are provided for each turn of the loop route.

Junction Coordinates Comments
1 N 50° 37.067 W 120° 29.192  go south
2 N 50° 36.679 W 120° 29.222  go uphill, southwest
3 N 50° 36.248 W 120° 29.324  stay right
4 N 50° 36.210 W 120° 29.364  stay right; do not climb the hill
5 N 50° 36.467 W 120° 29.736  follow the track north, then NW
6 N 50° 36.830 W 120° 29.642 bear east and continue across the gully

Most of this 7km hike is in the forest, but there are a number of open spots and occasional views of Sugarloaf Hill and Greenstone Mountain.   Dam Lake is a pleasant spot for a stop and a snack.     With a lower elevation, this route can be hiked until mid winter when it will turn into a good snowshoe route.    The Dam Lake Loop makes a good shoulder season hike/bike/snowshoe route when the motorcycles and snowmobiles are all in storage,

 

 

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Late Cold Shoulders

Posted on December 15, 2011 by Doug Smith

When you live at N50 latitude, winters stretch from early December to the first part of March. Higher elevations become blanketed in snow. It takes a while for the snow to build up to allow good backcountry cross country skiing and snowshoeing and the short days also restrict our week day outdoors activity. Late Shoulder Season is a challenge for outdoors enthusiasts because even though the snow builds up at elevation, getting to that elevation may be a challenge. To enjoy snowshoeing and off-trail cross country skiing, we need a foot of snow and more is even better. So what can we do in Late Shoulder Season (late November until the end of December)?

Winter hiking can be very enjoyable if we are properly dressed and choose the right areas. Keeping our feet warm and dry is the first priority. Use a good hiking boot. If the boots are not weather-proof, then treat the leather with waterproofing. We usually apply Dubbin or a wax-silicone leather treatment to our boots.

Even good hiking boots that are rated as waterproof lose some of the resistance over time, so an annual leather treatment is a good thing to extend the life of the boot. At the same time, we also use a boot repair compound that can be applied to cracks and tears. It fills the gap and hardens, but remains flexible. A must-have for winter hiking are gaiters. No matter how good your boots are, you will step in snow that will come over the top of your boot and if your socks get wet, you will be miserable, Gaiters keep the snow out of your boots. They are light, inexpensive and worth their weight in gold. A toque and gloves are needed and layers is the way to go for everything else. Light layers can be added or taken off once you get warmed up.

Where can you winter hike? You can try anywhere, but two types of hikes work better than others.

  • Any well-hiked trail gets stomped down enough to provide good footing to those who follow. The exception to this rule is that some of these routes get stomped down, but can also ice over. Hike these trails until a melt comes. Mount Dufferin Trails are all well-used and make good winter trails.

  • Any side or back road that is not driven on becomes a winter hiking corridor. Any of the side roads on the way to Lac le Jeune can be winter hiked. Side tracks off the Lac du Bois Road are another good choice. These same roads will be snowmobiled in winter, but until that time will make a nice winter hike. The Inks Lakes area is a very large network of roads and trails with a good parking area just off the Coquihalla.

So, if the weather is reasonable, winter trails invite hiking right up to snowshoe season. Watch for our tracks in the snow.

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