Outdoor enthusiasts world-wide keep the Wapta Traverse on their “bucket list.”   It is a high altitude route traversing a number of glaciers on the Great Divide.   Although there are other traverses in the Canadian Rockies, many require crossing steep icefalls and are best suited to skilled mountaineers.    The Wapta Traverse, on the other hand, can be completed with reasonable skiing skills and Alpine Club of Canada Huts can be used along the route.   That is not to say that this is an easy route.   There are still many challenges – whiteouts, route-finding, cold weather, exhaustion, steep sections, and the many hazards traveling on and around glaciers – crevasses, millwells, seracs, avalanches, and so on – but the Traverse can be done by staying on a safe route and ending each day at an alpine hut.   The classic traverse is from Peyto Lake to Sherbrooke Lake, but it can also be accessed from Bow Lake or the Yoho Valley.    Over the years, we attempted all 3 routes;  each will be a separate story.

1. Peyto Glacier

Driving the Banff-Jasper Highway, the Peyto Lake viewpoint is a photographers dream.      The green-blue waters and glacial outwash framed by the mountains is in everyone’s photo album.    This is also the starting point for the Wapta Traverse.   Park here.   Put on your backpack and skis and look down.   The first leg is a steep downhill through the forest.   Generally aim to the SW corner of the lake.   There is nothing like a face-plant with a forty pound pack on your back to start off a trip.    Swooping down on telemark skis in forest is not an exact science, and unexpected results are the norm;  a sense of humor is required.   Once down the slope, clear the snow off you clothing and cross the lake then start the route across the outwash, aiming up the stream valley.   As it turns into a steep gorge, skiers can work their way up the slope on one side using kick turns.   Skins are the best choice here.   It is too steep for wax.   One 50m section is particularly difficult.   We managed to keep our skis on, but it takes some maneuvering to get over the bluff.   From there, rolling glacial moraines lie ahead.   After a winter’s snowfall, it is easy to climb onto the snout of the glacier.   Stay in the middle of the glacier, aiming at the icefall, but as you climb, veer around the icefall and rockband, looping out in a wide arc before coming back toward the hut.   In early winter or in late spring, crevasses may be an issue so harnesses, rope, ice axes, etc. are required.   In the deep of winter, a deep blanket of snow covered everything.

It takes 3-4 hours to ski up to the hut (670m elevation gained) and for most this will be the first day of the trip.   Peyto Hut is a fibreglass insulated hut with one big room, a stove, sleeping areas (for 24), and an eating area.   The outhouse is uniquely situated at the edge of the bluff under Mount Thompson.

The old photo was taken back in the era of film:

Tracks up to the last part to the hut:

Peyto Glacier: